To install drip edge flashing on your roof in Brooklyn, start by placing the metal drip edge along the eaves (the bottom edge of the roof) before you lay down the underlayment.
Position it so the flange hangs over the edge and directs water into the gutter. Secure it with galvanized roofing nails every 12 inches, overlapping each piece by about 1 inch to prevent water from slipping through.
At the corners, cut and fold the drip edge to wrap around neatly without leaving gaps. Once the eave drip edge is in place, roll out your underlayment or ice and water shield over it.
After that, install the drip edge along the rake edges (the sloped sides of the roof), placing it on top of the underlayment this time. Again, nail it down every 12 inches and overlap the joints properly. Finish by cutting and bending the drip edge to follow the ridge line securely.
Make sure all nails are covered by shingles to prevent leaks. This method is used by professionals like S&R General Construction NYC, following Brooklyn roofing code to ensure your roof stays dry, strong, and protected in all weather.
Tools & Materials You’ll Need
- L‑shaped or T‑shaped metal drip edge (galvanized steel or aluminum)
- Roofing nails (galvanized, for corrosion resistance)
- Tin snips (for cutting metal)
- Hammer or roofing nail gun
- Underlayment or ice & water shield
- Measuring tape
- Ladder and safety gear (gloves, goggles)
Step-by-Step: How to Install Drip Edge Flashing
Start at the Eaves
- Place the drip edge so the flange hangs over your roof edge and shoulders water into the gutter.
- Lift and align it before securing.
- Nail it about every 12 inches. Overlap pieces by ~1″.
This helps stop water from soaking into the fascia beneath the shingles.
Wrap Around Corners
- For an eave‑rake corner, mark where the drip edge overlaps on both roof edges at ~1″ margin.
- Cut a flap out (creating a little “tab”), and then fold it into place to wrap the corner neatly.
Install Underlayment
- Once your eaves are lined with drip edge, lay down underlayment or ice & water shield so it covers the drip edge.
- Then move on to installing shingles.
Finish Up at Rakes & Ridge
- After underlayment is installed, fit drip edge along the rake edges (the sloped sides).
- At the ridge or peak, cut and bend the drip edge to follow the roof line, and fasten it securely.
Quality Checks
- Ensure nails are covered by shingles don’t leave them exposed.
- Maintain 12″ nail spacing, never exceeding 16″.
- Confirm drip edge overlaps well at joints and wraps neatly around ridges.
Upgrades & Repairs
- If replacing drip edge under shingles, pry carefully.
- You can also tuck a strip of ice & water shield underneath the overlap to prevent leaking if needed.
Want a visual walkthrough from professionals?
Why It Matters in Brooklyn
- NYC building codes require drip edge along eaves and rakes to direct water away from fascia and gutters this spectral metal keeps your roof in top shape.
- S&R General Construction NYC uses this exact method matching industry best practices and local code for flat-to-gabled roofs in Brooklyn.
How Much Does It Cost to Install Drip Edge Flashing in New York?
In New York, the cost to install drip edge flashing typically ranges between $2.50 and $5.00 per linear foot, depending on your roof’s size, height, condition, and the complexity of the edges. That means for a typical single-family home in Brooklyn, the total cost can range from $300 to $750 on average for labor and materials combined.
| City / Borough | ZIP Code(s) | Avg. Cost (per linear foot) | Typical Total Cost (based on 100–150 ft) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Brooklyn | 11201–11239 | $2.75 – $5.25 | $275 – $750+ |
| Manhattan (NYC) | 10001–10282 | $3.50 – $6.50 | $350 – $850+ |
| Queens | 11354, 11432, etc. | $2.50 – $4.75 | $250 – $625 |
| The Bronx | 10451–10475 | $2.25 – $4.25 | $225 – $575 |
| Staten Island | 10301–10314 | $2.75 – $4.50 | $275 – $600 |
| Buffalo | 14201–14280 | $1.90 – $3.50 | $190 – $475 |
| Rochester | 14604–14694 | $1.85 – $3.25 | $185 – $450 |
| Albany | 12201–12212 | $2.00 – $3.75 | $200 – $500 |
| Syracuse | 13201–13290 | $1.85 – $3.10 | $185 – $465 |
Cost Breakdown (Brooklyn Estimate by S&R General Construction NYC)
| Item | Estimated Cost per Linear Foot |
|---|---|
| Galvanized Drip Edge Material | $1.00 – $1.50 |
| Professional Installation | $1.50 – $3.50 |
| Total (installed) | $2.50 – $5.00 |
Total Project Estimate
| Roof Edge Length | Total Installed Cost |
|---|---|
| 100 linear feet | $250 – $500 |
| 150 linear feet | $375 – $750 |
| 200 linear feet | $500 – $1,000 |
Factors That Can Affect the Price
- Roof Height or Steepness – Steeper or higher roofs may cost more due to safety equipment and time.
- Old Flashing Removal – If old metal needs to be removed, expect an additional $50–$150.
- Custom Bending or Corner Work – Complex corners or special trims cost more.
- Material Type – Painted aluminum or copper drip edge will increase costs.
- Emergency or Off-Hour Repairs – Weekend or urgent repairs may add a surcharge.
Tips:
- These prices include materials and labor.
- Expect higher prices in NYC due to union labor and steep roof access.
- Doing it yourself? You’ll pay around $0.80 – $2.00 per foot just for materials.
- Retrofits may cost more if your shingles or fascia need repair.
For Brooklyn homeowners, calling a trusted local contractor like S & R General Construction NYC ensures fair pricing, code compliance, and no surprises.
Common Mistakes to Avoid While Installing Drip Edge Flashing on Your Roof?
1. Installing It After the Shingles
One of the biggest mistakes is placing the drip edge on top of the shingles. This is completely wrong. Water will run under the drip edge and rot your roof deck. Always install the drip edge first at the eaves—before underlayment and shingles go on.
2. Skipping the Rake Edges
Many people forget the rake edges (the sloped sides of the roof). Brooklyn roofing code requires flashing on both the eaves and rakes. Without it, wind-driven rain can soak the roof’s edge and cause leaks inside walls.
3. Nailing Too Far Apart
Spacing your nails too wide like 2–3 feet apart leaves gaps where wind can lift the flashing. You must nail every 12 inches to keep it locked in place.
4. No Overlaps or Wrong Overlaps
Each piece of drip edge must overlap the next by at least 1 inch. If you install them end-to-end or in reverse overlap, water will seep between them.
5. Not Sealing Corners
Corners often get rushed. If you don’t cut, fold, and secure the flashing properly, rainwater will sneak into the seams. Every corner must be bent tight, with no open spots or sharp gaps.
6. Using the Wrong Metal
Using low-quality or incompatible metal like mixing aluminum flashing with copper gutters can cause corrosion. S&R General Construction NYC uses rust-proof galvanized or color-matched aluminum to match Brooklyn’s harsh weather and building code.
7. Leaving Nails Exposed
Exposed nail heads can rust or become leak points. They must be covered by shingles, or sealed tightly with roofing cement if visible at overlaps.
These mistakes ensures your drip edge does what it’s meant to do protect your home from rot, mold, and leaks. For expert installation done right the first time, contact S&R General Construction NYC trusted by Brooklyn homeowners for code-compliant roofing.
When to Call a Roofer in Brooklyn
1. You See Water Damage or Rot
If you spot mold, water stains, or soft wood around your roof edge or soffits, it means your old drip edge is failing or missing. Call a roofer like S&R General Construction NYC immediately before the damage spreads inside your home.
2. You’re Replacing a Roof
If you’re doing a full roof replacement in Brooklyn, now is the perfect time to install new drip edge flashing. It’s required by building codes and helps your roof last longer. A licensed roofer ensures it’s installed properly starting at the eaves, wrapping corners, and overlapping pieces tight.
3. Old Drip Edge Was Installed Wrong
If the metal flashing is over the shingles (instead of under), cut wrong at the corners, or has big gaps between pieces it needs to be redone. A roofing expert can remove the shingles carefully and reinstall the drip edge without damaging the roof.
4. Your Roof Is Steep or High
Drip edge installation sounds simple but working near the edge of a tall or steep roof is dangerous. Brooklyn rooftops often have slope changes or parapet walls. A pro roofer has the right safety gear, ladders, and harnesses.
5. You’re Not Sure About NYC Code
Brooklyn homes must follow strict city codes for roofing. If you don’t know what metal type, size, or method is approved call a licensed roofer. S&R General Construction NYC installs drip edge flashing to pass inspections and keep your roof warranty valid.
What are the key steps to properly align and secure drip edge on my roof?
Start with the Eaves (Bottom Edge)
- Begin at the lowest edge of the roof (eaves), before any underlayment or shingles.
- Position the drip edge so the vertical leg sits snug against the fascia board, and the angled edge hangs past the roof sheathing by about ½ inch.
- Make sure the flange points downward toward the gutter.
Don’t install it flat or crooked. It must follow the roofline perfectly to shed water correctly.
2. Measure and Cut Accurately
- Use tin snips to cut the metal drip edge to size.
- Overlap each new piece by at least 1 inch.
- For corners, cut a 45° angle at the end of the piece so it folds and wraps cleanly around the edge.
Tip: Fold sharp ends slightly inward to avoid catching on underlayment or shingles.
3. Secure with Galvanized Nails
- Use 1¼-inch roofing nails, corrosion-resistant only.
- Nail into the roof deck, not just the fascia.
- Spacing: Nail every 12 inches along the top flange.
- Make sure nails sit flat and don’t distort the metal strip.
4. Lay Underlayment Over the Eave Drip Edge
- Once the drip edge is secured at the eaves, roll your roofing underlayment over it. This seals water off.
- The underlayment should cover the vertical leg of the drip edge slightly to direct runoff outward.
5. Install Drip Edge on the Rakes (Sloped Sides)
- After underlayment, install the drip edge on rake edges, placing the metal strip over the underlayment.
- Align it tight to the roof’s edge and repeat the same nail pattern (every 12″).
Why this matters: Rake flashing stops wind-blown rain from creeping under the roof deck.
6. Finish Corners & Ridge Carefully
- Where two drip edge pieces meet at a ridge or corner, cut and bend them for a tight, flush fit.
- Avoid gaps, and if needed, add roofing cement at overlap seams to block water entry.
Final Alignment Check:
- Edges should form a clean line from corner to corner.
- Overlaps must face away from prevailing wind direction.
- Nails should be covered by shingles to avoid rust or leaks.
How do I ensure the drip edge overlaps correctly for water runoff protection
1. Always Overlap Downhill
Start at the bottom corner of the roof (lowest edge of the eave) and work upward and outward.
This makes sure water flows over each piece—not under it.
Think of shingles or fish scales: water rolls over each layer below.
2. Maintain a 1″ Minimum Overlap
When joining two drip edge pieces:
- Overlap the next piece by at least 1 inch over the previous one.
- For best protection, 1.5 inches is ideal during heavy rainfall areas like Brooklyn.
Too small an overlap lets water sneak through. Too large can create bumps under shingles.
3. Cut Angled Joints for Corners
Where two edges meet (e.g. eave to rake, or at a roof corner):
- Cut a 45° angle on the top flange using tin snips.
- Slightly notch the bottom lip so it folds neatly.
- Overlap the top piece over the bottom one so rain naturally rolls off.
4. Face All Overlaps Away from Wind
Brooklyn winds often come from the west and southwest.
So when overlapping, place the upper piece on top, facing the direction the wind blows. This prevents gust-driven rain from blowing up underneath the seam.
5. Seal If Needed (Optional but Smart)
If you’re not covering the seam with shingles soon:
- Add a small bead of roofing cement or flashing sealant between overlapped pieces to block capillary water creep.
6. Nail the Overlap Correctly
Place a roofing nail about 2 inches in from the overlap edge (on both pieces) to hold them together tight. Nail heads should sit flush and not deform the metal.
Final Check:
- No gaps, bulges, or sharp sticking ends.
- Overlap is clean, snug, and slopes with the roof.
- Rainwater should have a smooth downhill path from one strip to the next.
Doing this right is what protects your fascia, walls, and deck from rot, even during Brooklyn’s harsh weather seasons. If you want it done perfectly, with proper wind-facing overlaps and corner wrapping, reach out to S&R General Construction NYC for expert flashing installation.
FAQs About Drip Edge Flashing
Do I need furring strips with drip edge?
If using Type C drip edge, you can install a furring strip (one-by-two wood) on the vertical surface beneath the roof’s edge. This keeps the lower flange further from the home’s siding, helping direct water away more effectively.
How do I handle corners where eaves meet rakes?
When installing rake edge that meets eaves drip edge, cut the vertical line of the rake edge and bend it around the corner to hook into the eaves drip edge. This creates a proper seal at the corner for complete water protection.
Do I really need drip edge flashing if my roof already has gutters?
Yes. Gutters catch water that’s already falling. Drip edge flashing guides the water into those gutters. Without it, water can slide behind the gutter, soak your fascia, and rot the wood. Gutters and drip edge are a team not one or the other.
Can I install drip edge flashing without removing the shingles?
If your shingles are new or flexible, yes, you can carefully lift the edge and slide the flashing underneath. But if they’re old and brittle, they’ll likely crack. In that case, you may need to replace the first row of shingles or wait until your next reroof.
Which comes first, the drip edge or the underlayment?
This trips up a lot of people. Here’s the rule:
At the eaves: Drip edge goes under the underlayment.
At the rakes: Drip edge goes on top of the underlayment.
This layering stops both gravity and wind-driven rain.
What type of drip edge should I use?
For most Brooklyn homes, Type D (also called T-style) is a solid choice. It sends water farther away from the edge which helps in storms. If you’re not sure, go with aluminum. It’s easy to cut, doesn’t rust, and holds up well to our city weather.
Can I install it myself? Or should I hire someone?
If your roof is flat or has a gentle slope and you’re comfortable on a ladder, yes, this is totally DIYable. But if the roof is steep, the shingles are brittle, or you’re unsure about layering, call a pro. A small mistake can lead to leaks that cost a lot more later.
Need a hand? Contact S & R General Construction NYC is trusted in Brooklyn and knows these roofs inside and out.